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This page is about the various exhaust mods done to the Avenger.

My header is a generic POS from eBay, and the slip joint on the downpipe leaks, even after I put a clamp on it. I got it used, and it is intended for a 1995 Avenger, which I assume has something to do with the extra EGR fitting on it that is blocked off. It has a 3/8" flange, 1 5/8" primaries in a 4-1 design going into a 2.5" collector. The primaries are crimp-bent and short, with unequal lengths. Do not ever buy a header like this. It's useless. The downpipe is 2 1/4". The only nice things about this header are that it is ceramic coated and has an actual factory-style flex joint in the downpipe. These pics are in chronological order from the install:















As you can see, I ordered all new hardware from the dealer, including bolts, nuts, gaskets, etc. because this is one of those things that you hate to stop in the middle of. Also in that undercar shot, you can see my catalytic converter and the Bosal exhaust system as it was delivered and originally installed (by me).

A fun sidenote is that I did not have the hardware to bolt the downpipe on at the shop where I was working, so I drove all the way across Coralville and Iowa City with an open header. It was pretty freaking loud... aka, awesome. I bolted the DP on by pulling the front tires up on the curb at the auto parts store, crawling underneath and doing the job in the dark parking lot.




Now for everything behind the header downpipe:

A long time ago, I rigged up a glasspack with a crimped 45 degree bend and an ugly tip from the parts store. The whole thing cost about $50, but it sounded like butt becuase the clamped joints leaked, as did the oversize bolt-on tip.


After driving around that way for awhile, I decided that it was not quite..... "sophisticated" enough, so I plunked down a fair chunk of change for a Bosal catback system, which is one of very few systems availible for the Avenger. Looking back, buying this was stupid. I was immediately disappointed to find that the Bosal muffler was not straight-through, but chambered (and don't tell me that small engines need backpressure; just leave your stock muffler on if that's what you think). Also, it did not come with most of the hardware that I needed to install it. The muffler body is huge (and heavy). The dual 3.5" tips are overkill, to put it nicely, not to mention that they had rubbed off paint in the first 10 minutes that I drove around, because of the way the system is designed to touch the rear fascia. I ultimately replaced the rubber hangers with aftermarket ones to lower the tips away from the bumper, but that put additional strain on everything else. While I am at it, I should mention the fact that for no apparent reason, there is a short section of pipe right behind the cat that is smaller than the rest of the system. And, I hated the way it sounded. It was louder and relatively low-pitched at lower speeds, but the sound had no character because of the backpressure effects of the muffler. Ironically, the muffler was just free-flowing enough that it allowed an annoying "zip" sound to escape from around 2500-4500 rpm (which also could have been cured if Bosal had installed a resonator like the factory one). Anyway, here are pics of the Bosal system from the box, compared to what was on there, and installed:

Two things to notice in the last shot: the lowered tips, and the mammoth size of the Bosal muffler.




Well, after driving around for a year thinking about how I hated my exhaust system, I finally decided to do something about it, so I ordered a Dynomax Ultra-Flo muffler (p/n 17283), a 45-degree mandrel bend, a 3" SS tip and some 2.5" piping from Summit Racing. While I was installing this stuff, I learned several things, such as:

-how to weld
-welding the stainless alloy used in the Bosal system is almost impossible, even though I used "Stainless" rod.
-In a final effort to make me hate them, Bosal used 2 3/8" piping (a very nonstandard size) which makes the whole process that much more difficult. And yes, I measured it with calipers.

Here are the shots from the install/fabrication process:


If I could give advice to someone wanting to upgrade their exhaust system, I would recommend doing whichever of the following options best suits your sound, appearance, and emmissions requirements:

-For a moderate sound, performance and appearance upgrade over stock, replace the muffler with whatever aftermarket one you choose. You will need a muffler with a 2.25" inlet, a 2.25" 45 degree mandrel bend, and some type of adapter to attach the 2.25" pipe to the factory 2-1/8" pipe. I would recommend welding to fasten all of these joints and make hangers. If you are not comfortable with the welding, an exhaust shop should be able to do the entire installation for under $50. If you want to keep the sound relatively mild, at the expense of a couple of top-end horsepower, go with a higher-flowing backpressure-type muffler like a Dynomax Super Turbo. If you can live with a louder exhaust note, use a straight-through muffler like a Dynomax Ultra-Flo, Borla or Magnaflow. I personally would not use a Flowmaster muffler, as they do not flow as well as a straight-core muffler, or muffle as well as a turbo-style muffler, and the all-metal construction does not give the tonal quality that a muffler with packing will have, but many people use Flowmasters and are very happy with them, so be your own judge. The stock piping is large enough and smoothly bent enough to take advantage of a muffler upgrade, and would be adequate for pretty much any vehichle without a turbo or a generous shot of nitrous oxide. With the type of upgrade described in this paragraph, the catalytic converter and factory resonator will effectively quell all harsh overtones, and you won't need to add any more mufflers like I did.

-If you are at a performance level which dictates larger piping (ie, turbo or nitrous), I would advise either finding someplace that can custom-mandrel-bend or use pre-fab bends to fabricate a system. After my experiences, it is in no way worthwhile to pay over $300 for a single exhaust system on a small car, when you could make, or have made, a system which would be much more well-suited to your needs for the same, or even less money.

If I had it to do all over again, I would have just replaced the muffler with a high quality straight-through type, and I theorize that I would have almost the same top end horsepower, and likely even pick up one or two ft-lbs of torque in the lower revs. If I could afford it, I would mock-up such a system and compare it to what I have now... maybe someday... but my point is, I could have gotten the same performance for roughly $150, instead of over $500 that I have invested now after replacing expensive parts with more expensive parts.....

Thanks for looking and if you are still reading at this point, feel free to email me with questions or comments.

Back to my main Avenger page.

NOTE: MANY EXHAUST SYSTEM MODIFICATIONS WILL CAUSE YOUR VEHICLE TO BE IN VIOLATION OF ALL KINDS OF LAWS, INCLUDING: EMISSIONS, NOISE AND PERHAPS OTHERS. ALSO, ALTHOUGH CERTAIN MODS ARE PROTECTED BY THE MAGNUSON-MOSS ACT, MANY LISTED HERE WILL CAUSE A REVOKATION OF YOUR FACTORY WARRANTY IN PART OR WHOLE. YOU ALONE ARE RESPONSIBLE TO KNOW WHAT IS RIGHT AND WRONG, LEGAL AND ILLEGAL, AND OPERATE YOUR VEHICLE IN A LEGAL, SAFE AND RESPONSIBLE MANNER.




email-> ben@wantlandracing.com

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